Pulk

Pulk (from Finnish pulkka)[1] is a Nordic short, low-slung small toboggan used in sport or for transport, pulled by a dog or a skier, or in Lapland pulled by reindeer.[2

 

Here is my Pulk

There are many more detailed websites about pulks on the internet.  So I thought I'd show you some of the things I did differently.

 These are the parts for the ends of the Pull/Push rods.

 The 1/4" fender washer fits nicely inside the 3/4" PVC end cap.

 Since exact center is not critical, I used the 1/4" fender washer to center the drill.

 One 1/4" fender washer was placed on the outside of the cap

 Then I placed the eyebolt in the vise, resting on the nut.

 After inserting the other washer on the inside the nut was installed.  When the Pull/Push rod is assembled this nut will be inaccessible.  

 Rather than using a lock nut I peened the end of the eyebolt.  That nut will never come off.

Ok, when I came up with idea I thought it was cool, since once the end was glued on the Pull/Push rod, it wasn't coming apart.  On second thought,  If the Pull/Push rod was ever to break, these parts would not be recoverable.  So don't peen the ends, use a lock nut instead.  That way if the Pull/Push rod were to break, you could just unscrew the lock nut and reuse the parts.

 For the two Pull/Push rods 4 end caps are used.  The are glued on each end.  I used the above hardware to connect the Pull/Push rods to the sled portion of the Pulk.

 I found a Nylon bushing that fit snuggly in the eye of the eye bolts and a clevis pin that fits snuggly inside that Nylon bushing.

 The washer on the head end of the clevis pin keeps it from pulling through the eyebolt.  The R clip holds it all together.

 Here you can see the Pull/Push rod attached to the sled.  Note that I have cut the clevis pin down.

Though I am proud of this little mechanism, there is something I don't care for, there are too many loose parts to lose in the snow during assembly and disassembly at the trail head.

 In an attempt to reinforce the sled, I used a heat gun to put a 1/2" PVC around the perimeter.  Use caution and gloves doing this.  The PVC pipe goes from fairly stiff to really soft rather quickly when you apply enough heat to bend the PVC.

 I joined the ends with a connector.

 The 1/2" PVC around the perimeter.

 I drilled a 1/4" hole through the sled and the 1/2" PVC to insert the eyebolts.  Then I drilled holes large enough to fit the approiate size socket on the outside of the PVC.  The nuts attaching the eyebolts are mounted against the outside of the sled and the inside of the PVC.  Caution, when drilling the holes it is best to use a drill secifically sharpened to cut plastic.  A regular metal drill will catch the plastic and tend to crack the PVC.  I used a "Step" drill to make the holes. 

 I am going to place slightly opened eyebolts around the perimeter of the Pulk to facilitate attaching a cargo net.  I figured that these opened eyebolts wouldn't snag things as easily as a hook.  I used a tapered punch to open the eyebolts.

 Here is the cargo net attached to an opened eyebolt.

 The finished sled portion of the Pulk with cargo net attached.

 This is a back support belt.  The Pull/Push rods are connected to loops on that belt.  There is quite a bit of slack with these carabiners, so I am looking for a better way to do this.

 The Finished Pulk!


If you give me money, I'll try to spend it.


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