Pulk (from Finnish pulkka) is a Nordic short, low-slung small toboggan used in sport or for transport, pulled by a dog or a skier, or in Lapland pulled by reindeer.[2
Here is my Pulk
There are many more detailed websites about pulks on the internet. So I thought I'd show you some of the things I did differently.
These are the parts for the ends of the
The 1/4" fender washer fits nicely
inside the 3/4" PVC end cap.
Since exact center is not critical, I
used the 1/4" fender washer to center the drill.
One 1/4" fender washer was placed on
the outside of the cap
Then I placed the eyebolt in the vise,
resting on the nut.
After inserting the other washer on the
inside the nut was installed. When the Pull/Push rod is assembled this nut
will be inaccessible.
Rather than using a lock nut I peened the end of the eyebolt. That nut will never come off.
Ok, when I came up with idea I thought it was
cool, since once the end was glued on the Pull/Push rod, it wasn't coming
apart. On second thought, If the Pull/Push rod was ever to break, these
parts would not be recoverable. So don't peen the ends, use a lock nut
instead. That way if the Pull/Push rod were to break, you could just
unscrew the lock nut and reuse the parts.
For the two Pull/Push rods 4 end caps are
used. The are glued on each end. I used the above hardware to
connect the Pull/Push rods to the sled portion of the Pulk.
I found a Nylon bushing that fit snuggly
in the eye of the eye bolts and a clevis pin that fits snuggly inside that Nylon
The washer on the head end of the clevis
pin keeps it from pulling through the eyebolt. The R clip holds it all
Here you can see the Pull/Push rod attached to the sled. Note that I have cut the clevis pin down.
Though I am proud of this little mechanism,
there is something I don't care for, there are too many loose parts to lose in
the snow during assembly and disassembly at the trail head.
In an attempt to reinforce the sled, I
used a heat gun to put a 1/2" PVC around the perimeter. Use caution
and gloves doing this. The PVC pipe goes from fairly stiff to really soft
rather quickly when you apply enough heat to bend the PVC.
I joined the ends with a connector.
The 1/2" PVC around the perimeter.
I drilled a 1/4" hole through the
sled and the 1/2" PVC to insert the eyebolts. Then I drilled holes
large enough to fit the approiate size socket on the outside of the PVC.
The nuts attaching the eyebolts are mounted against the outside of the sled and
the inside of the PVC. Caution, when drilling the holes it is best to use
a drill secifically sharpened to cut plastic. A regular metal drill will
catch the plastic and tend to crack the PVC. I used a "Step"
drill to make the holes.
I am going to place slightly opened
eyebolts around the perimeter of the Pulk to facilitate attaching a cargo
net. I figured that these opened eyebolts wouldn't snag things as easily
as a hook. I used a tapered punch to open the eyebolts.
Here is the cargo net attached to an
The finished sled portion of the Pulk
with cargo net attached.
This is a back support belt.
The Pull/Push rods are connected to loops on that belt. There is quite a
bit of slack with these carabiners, so I am looking for a better way to do this.
The Finished Pulk!
If you give me money, I'll try to spend it.