West Greenland Skin On Frame Kayak

I purchased Building Skin-On-Frame Boats, by Robert Morris and decided to try and build a skin-on-frame

  West Greenland Kayak  


A gentleman came over the other day and looked at my Kayak.  Turns out he guides flatwater kayaking in Yellowstone and Grand Teton parks.  He invited me along on one of his trips, but said that I would have to use one of his plastic boats since mine was not capable of carrying enough gear for the multiple day trips he guides.  "WHAT THE HECK "   I'm sure that my boat has tremendous load carrying capability.  But then He was right.  Though I could prolly carry a heck of a load, packing it into the boat would be problematic.

Well a rear hatch would take care of that.  So I emailed Mr. Morris to ask his advice on hatches in Skin-On-Frame Kayaks, and he suggested a Plastic Hatch.  I was unable to find the kind that he suggested, but was able to find this locally:

This is called Gamma Seal.  It's used to seal 5 gallon paint buckets.  Oh yea the disclaimer:  I am in no way associated with the company that makes "The Gamma Seal Lid", nor do get anything from them.  Anyway, this thing snaps on the bucket, and is reputed to be air and water tight.

Top View


The inner and outer threads

The seal on the screw on portion of the lid


Here is the type of bucket used.


So I sawed off the top rim.


Here is the rim sawed off and debured.  Yea, I know the saw is in rough shape.  A little neglect goes a long way.

Here is the rim that the lid snaps on to.


Here is the seal that seals against the bucket rim.

A test fit.  It's a pretty snug fit.  I don't have the rim snapped into the lid yet.  Notice that there is about 1/2" of white rim sticking above the inside lip.


Here is where it will go.


Marked off 1 1/2" inside the lid


Inserted the rim.


Cut out the hole, and cut the cord out of the skin where the lid will snap into the rim.


The hole trimmed at 1 1/2"s was too small, so I used a hot knife to trim it to 1"  Then cut 1/2" slits radially around the circle


Here the rim is pushed up into the lid sandwiching the skin between them.  Note the 1/2" extra rim below the orange lid.  The rim and lid are not snapped together yet.  You an also see just a bit of the fabric sticking out.


I used clamps to snap the rim to the lid.


Took some doing, but I was able to get the rim snapped into the lid


Fore View.


Aft View


Inside Aft View


Inside Fore View.  Notice there is only about 1/4" of the rim showing.  I figure that it's securely snapped together.


Maybe I could have used a different color.

The Hatch that Mr. Morris recommended was a flush fit.  This one is not.  Only time will tell if it actually works or not.  I have to refinish this kayak, and that has to wait till the weather warms.  I'll test the hatch for watertightness after the refinish.

If you give me money, I'll try to spend it.

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