Skin On Frame Recovery Kayak

I purchased Building Skin-On-Frame Boats, by Robert Morris and decided to try and build a skin-on-frame Recovery Kayak

I went to a local cabinet shop looking for scrap. They gave me about a 100 lbs. bundle of alder scraps.
Alder isn't the best wood for a skin on frame kayak, but the price was right

Here are the gunwales jigged up. The neat part is that I was able to reuse the forms from the West Greenland Kayak

The here is a series of pictures showing how I cut the compound angles for the deck beams.
I placed the deck beam in it's intended location, then using a square, made a mark on the bottom of the beam where the square hits the lower edge of the gunwale.
I repeated the process on the other side of the beam

A nearly perfect picture of where I placed the lower mark

Adjusting the square till it just touches the top edge, I made a mark on the top of the beam that corresponds with the top edge of the gunwale on both sides
This particular method works well if the deck beam is the same height as the gunwale's width. In this case the marks can be taken from the top and bottom edges of the gunwales.

A couple of nearly perfect pictures showing the marks on both sides of the beam.

Using a straight edge draw lines from mark to mark all the way around the beam

Then just cut along the lines.

Not a bad fit. In his book Mr. Morris recommends using a band saw set to a predetermined angle. Using the band saw would give you the proper angles. Using my method will only fit the beams to the angle that the gunwales are sitting in the jig.
Use Caution

Here is the nose piece, held in place temporarily, with screws, till the glue dries. The same method for marking compound cuts can be used to cut the nose piece.

A couple more views of the nose piece.

Since for the second time I did not follow the instructions in the book and cut the gunwales out of the same piece of lumber, I have to trim the gunwales to get them symmetrical. I've made center marks on all the deck beams and ends. Then I ran a tight line across the length across the center marks on the bow and stern. That allows me to use a square to make sure the frame is true.

Since it wasn't square, I then used a plane to remove material from the outer edge of the gunwale till the marks lined up with the string.

It's kind of hard to see, but this beam is about 1/4 inch off center. The off center is caused by one gunwale being a bit stiffer than the other. Planeing the outer edge of the gunwale on the string side of the mark weakens it allowing the other gunwale to push the beam towards the center

After some careful planeing it's centered. Don't just work on one beam at a time, but check them all and plane accordingly. At this point the frame is very dynamic so a change on one place may affect the shape in another.
Again, Use Caution.

The frame flipped showing the end piece and the mortises for the ribs. At this point the ends are glued and all the beams are temporarily held in place with screws.

Next: Masik, Knee Brace and Deck Beams

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